machood
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Aug 29, 2004, 12:19 AM
Post #6 of 7
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Re: [djp_y2k] housings for surf photography use
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Here is my two cents. I shoot surf video using diving housings and prpduce a TV sersise for local community TV here in Santa Cruz, CA (The RedShirt Surf Show). I use Light and Motion Stingay housings for Hi8 and a Ocean Images housing for my Canon GL-1. Both work well, but are fairly large and bulky. THis may sound bad but the weight tends to stablise the housing when shooting neck deep in frothing surf.
I would advise getting a housing that has positive bouyance when there are no weights attached. L&M and about 1/4 to /12 lb positive. The OI is maybe 1 lb positive.
The L&M housings require you to site the viewfinder though a small glass port. This means that the housing must be up at your head. This is OK and allows you to stablize the housing with your forehead while shooting. It also risks a broken nose or contused head if you are not in control or are hit by a board. On the other hand I use it as a defensive item to fend off loose boards coming at tme in the whitewater.
In addition, with L&M the small viewport, you then need to be able to decide wether and when to duck using this small picture (which destoys depth perception). I am getting good at it, but at first you can let them get too close.
If you are getting a new housing the Light an motion Top Dawg or Stingray would be good. The Top Dawg has a flat front glass plate and fits number of cameras, check to see if yours is one. The L&M hosuings use magnetic actuators for controls and this avoids "throught the housing" controls that Ikelite uses. I don't like that many O-rings in the Ikelite approach. One drawback to the magnetic controls is that they are held on by a plastic sideplate which is held in by tension. My left side controls got torn away two months ago in a rather spectacular wipe out. Now I duct tape the plastic sideplate in place.
The L&M units also have a very important feature... that is an external microphone. While they do not recommend exposing the microphone in surf or waves, I do it all the time and getting the real sounds from the break, such as the chatter and backtalk of the lineup is important. Also a major wipeout sounds awesome.
The OI has no external microphone and is alot larger. It allows you to view the fold out display directly through a clear rear plate. This allows better framing of the shot with both eyes and you can occasionally use your left eye for ranging and collision avoidance as necessary.
While neither of the companies involved recommend ths use of the housings in the surf, they both can work well. The housings may leak ... hell they may burst open ... in a major 15 ft over the falls wipeout, but if you are ever in that position you are an idiot. Photogs ALWAYS have the vertical dimension and when I am in a dangerous position due to waves or riders (e.g. six guys dropping into a wave heading directly at me) I forget the shot (there will ALWAYS be another wave) and I hit the bottom.
My rules are:
1) Come home in the same condition that you left
2) Know the break. Surf it yourself. If you dont know the break already, take time to learn it and ask a local
3) Be an experienced ocean swimmer and be nearly drownproof in heavy surf and multi-set waves
4) Know how rips, undertows, longshore currents work and know how to get out of them
5) Know the hazards (sharks, stingrays, jellyfish, more sharks, coral, Rocks, seals, and idiot locals)
6) Don't risk bodily harm for a shot that can be acquired in the next set with the next surfer
7) Don't damage any riders or their boards
8) Don't inhibit the riders ride
9) Respect the locals
10) Don't shoot anyone who doesn't want to be photographed
11) NEVER get vibed off the break
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